Saturday 13 June 2015

Indian Neighbours: Nepai II

Buddhist sites
Lumbini: Lumbinī , which means ‘ the lovely’ in sanskrit is the Buddhist pilgrimage site in the Rupandehi District of Nepal. It is the place where, according to Buddhist tradition, Queen Mayadevi gave birth to Siddhartha Gautama(the Buddha) in 623 BC. It is a world heritage site now.


I was very excited about the visit having visited Sarnath earlier and Kapilvastu was in my itinerary. Visit to Bodhgaya and Kushinagar will complete the famous ‘Buddhist Circuit”.  I was a bit disappointed to see the underdeveloped state of this town which gave to the world Buddha and Buddhism. A local rickshaw puller told that the place was till a couple of years back was a small ruin amidst the agriculture fields with cows roaming around. However, with lot of international initiatives the place now is undergoing massive construction activities and in a couple of years from now, I am sure this holy place will get the look that it truly deserves.


Lumbini currently has a number of temples, including the Mayadevi Temple and several others which are still under construction. Many monuments, monasteries and a museum — the Lumbini International Research Institute — are also located within the holy site. Also located there is the Puskarini or Holy Pond where the Buddha's mother took the ritual dip prior to his birth and where he, too, had his first bath. At other sites near Lumbini, earlier Buddhas were, according to tradition, born, achieved ultimate Enlightenment and finally relinquished their earthly forms.
Mayadevi Temple
Maya Devi temple is the major attraction being the birth place of Buddha. The Lumbini Temple marks the exact spot of the Buddha's birth. It sits over a slab of stone on which his mother grasped a branch of a tree during the birth. Coincidentally, the other three sacred sites mark an occurrence in Buddha's life that also happened under a tree.
Birth spot of Buddha

Asokan Pillar
A pillar now marks the spot of Ashoka's visit to Lumbiní. According to an inscription on the pillar, it was placed there by the people then in charge of the park to commemorate Ashoka's visit and gifts.The park was previously known as Rummindei, .In the Sutta Nipáta (vs. 683) it is stated that the Buddha was born in a village of the Sákyans in the Lumbineyya Janapada and  stayed in Lumbinívana during his visit to Devadaha and there preached the Devadaha Sutta.

This Bodhi tree is located opposite the Mayadevi pond in Lumbini. "Bodhi Tree", which is also known as Bo, is actually a term used for the very old fig tree where The Buddha, Siddhartha Gautama, is said to have sat under when he achived spiritual enlightenment in India. Such a stage of enlightenment is known as Bodhi.

Today the term Bodhi Tree has been given to several important trees in Buddhism. It is said that the term Bo Gaha in Sinhalese means "Tree of Wisdom". The Bodhi tree in Lumbini is often confused with a Sal or Ashokan tree that Queen Mayadevi is said to have given birth to the Buddha under.
Next to this temple is a sacred pool where Maya Devi is said to have bathed before the birth. The newborn Buddha also reputedly had his purification bath in this pool. The pool is fed by the Ol River, and it was on the banks of the river that Furher found what he called a "flawless stone" placed there by Ashoka to mark the exact spot of the birth. The stone is now under the current temple, and a sacred bodhi tree grows next to the pool


Boudhanath or Bodnath Stupa is the largest stupa in Nepal and is the holiest Tibetan Buddhist temple outside Tibet. It is the center of Tibetan culture in Kathmandu and rich in Buddhist symbolism. The Stupa was probably was probably built in the 14th century after the Mughal invasions. After the arrival of thousands of Tibetans following the 1959 Chinese invasion, the temple has become one of the most important centers of Tibetan Buddhism. Today it remains an important place of pilgrimage and meditation for Tibetan Buddhists and local Nepalis, as well as a popular tourist site.

From above, the Stupa looks like a giant mandala, or diagram of the Buddhist cosmos. And as in all Tibetan mandalas, four of the Dhyani Buddhas mark the cardinal points, with the fifth, Vairocana, enshrined in the center of the stupa. The five Buddhas also personify the five elements namely the earth, water, fire, air and ether, which are represented in the stupa's architecture. The nine levels of Stupa also represent the mythical Mt. Meru - the center of the cosmos; and the 13 rings from the base to the pinnacle symbolize the path to enlightenment, or "Bodhi" — hence the stupa's name.

At the bottom, the stupa is surrounded by an irregular 16-sided wall, with beautiful frescoes. In addition to the Five Dhyani Buddhas, Boudhanath Stupa is closely associated with the Bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara (Padmapani), whose 108 forms are depicted in sculptures around the base. The mantra of Avalokiteshvara - Om Mani Padme Hum - is carved on the prayer wheels beside the images of Avalokiteshvara around the base of the stupa.

Swayambunath Stupa : The stupa is located atop a hill on the western edge of the Kathmandu Valley. It is also known to the tourists as  the Monkey Temple.The sleepy, all-seeing Buddha eyes that stare out from the top have become the quintessential symbol of Nepal. When this temple was founded about 2,000 years ago, Kathmandu Valley was filled with a great lake. According to Buddhist legend, a single perfect lotus grew in the center of the lake. When the bodhisattva Manjusri drained the lake with a slash of his sword, the lotus flower settled on top of the hill and magically transformed into the stupa. Thus it is known as the Self-Created (swayambhu) Stupa.The earliest written record of the Swayambunath Stupa's existence is a 5th-century stone inscription and thus Swayambunath is one of Nepal's oldest Buddhist temples.



The primary approach to the temple is from the eastern side, where 365 ancient steps lead up the steep forested hillside. The base is about a 20-minute walk from the center of Kathmandu. This staircase is the only route pilgrims would consider and is the most memorable way for any visitor to experience the stupa. However, an alternative is to drive or take a taxi to the west side, where there are only a few steps to climb to the top. The staircase is presided over by three painted Buddha statues from the 17th century near the base; another group further up are from the early 20th century.


Strewn along the staircase are numerous mani stones, inscribed with the Tibetan mantra Om mani padme hum ("Hail to the jewel in the lotus"). Merchants sell smaller versions of the stones to tourists. The stairs run through a beautiful forest, which is populated with the hundreds of monkeys that give the temple its nickname.
The central buildings and decorations of Swayambhunath are rich with Buddhist symbolism. The whitewashed dome of the main stupa represents the womb of creation, with a phallic complement in the square tower. Rising from the tower is a spire made of 13 golden disks, representing the steps to enlightenment. The umbrella on top symbolizes enlightenment itself.  It is also believed that it contains a bowl of precious stones.


The famous Buddha eyes gazing out sleepily from each side of the tower (oriented to the four cardinal directions) are those of the all-seeing Primordial Buddha. Between each of the pairs of eyes is a symbol that looks like a question mark - this is the Nepali number "1" and represents the unity of all things. Gold plaques rising above the eyes like a crown depict the Five Dhyani Buddhas, celestial buddhas who are associated with the five senses, the four cardinal directions plus the center, and many other symbolic groups of five.

Northwest of the main stupa is another important shrine, associated with a fascinating legend. Shantipur is a small, plain, box-shaped temple said to contain a great treasure - a living holy man who has been meditating in there for 1500 years. Legend has it that Shanti Shri, who lived in the 5th century, locked himself in a vault beneath the temple, vowing to remain there until the Kathmandu Valley needed him. Entering a mystic state, he has achieved immortality and remains there to help the local people when needed.

In 1658, King Pratap Mella descended into the chamber alone to seek Shanti Shri's help with a drought. The king reported making his way through several underground rooms, each more frightening than the last. The first contained large bats and hawks, the second was home to hungry ghosts that clutched at him in agony, and the third was full of snakes that chased him until he pacified them with milk. The king found the saint in the last room, skinny as a skeleton but still alive and meditating. Shanti Shri presented the king with a mandala, which brought the needed rain.


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