Sunday 31 March 2013

Churches of Rome


Rome is full of churches, with unique history of its own. Although , all the churches may look monotonous in the end, little knowledge about its history and the type of architecture makes it interesting and a worth visit. I saw a few famous ones, which I am sharing with you all and no better time to share it then on the Easter day.

Vatican City: The world's smallest country with an area of only 0.44 sq km. Vatican City serves as the spiritual center for millions of practicing Roman Catholics, who visit Vatican from every nook and corner of the world. Vatican City is also called “the holy see”. In 1929, the Treaty of Lateran gave the Holy See autonomy, officially establishing this tiny area that attracts millions of visitors each year. Vatican City is home to about 800 residents. None of them are permanent. The population of this tiny area, which surrounds St Peters Basilica, is made up of priests, nuns, guards, high-ranking dignitaries and, of course, the pope, and is constantly changing.

Saint Peter’s square, St Peter Basilica, Vatican museum and the world famous Sistine chapel are the major attractions of the Vatican city.

Saint Peter's Square is a massive plaza located directly in front of St. Peter's Basilica in the Vatican City with an Egyptian obelisk at the centre. St Peter’s Basilica faces the square on Vatican hill. This location is highly symbolic as this is the site where Saint Peter, the chief apostle, died a martyr and where he was buried in 64 AD. St. Peter is considered the first pope, so it made perfect sense for the papacy to build the principal shrine of the Catholic Church here. The building is truly impressive and it is supposed to be the largest church in the world. The basilica's dome is one of the world's largest with forty-two meters in diameter.



The interior of the basilica is magnanimous. It is decorated with large monuments, many of which were created by Gian Lorenzo Bernini, one of the greatest artists of all time. One of his main creations invariably draws the immediate attention of visitors: the enormous, twenty-six meter high bronze masterpiece over the papal altar. The Baroque masterpiece is crafted from bronze that was taken from ceiling of the
Pantheon. In front of the papal altar is burial crypt that marks the presumed grave of St. Peter. It is encircled by ninety-five bronze oil lamps. There are plenty more tombs and sepulchral monuments in St. Peter's

Vatican City is also home to the expansive Museums, which have one of the most impressive art collections in the world. Some of the most famous works of art on display here include the wall and ceiling paintings of the Sistine Chapel, the Stanze of Raphael, the Lacoön statue and the Apollo del Belvedere. Sistine chapel is something not to be missed, although I am unlucky in this regard as it is closed on Sundays except the last Sunday of the month when entry is free. Due to official engagements on working days I could not find time to visit Sisitine Chapel, although I visited Vatican City many times. Sistine chapel, located within the premises of Vatican museum,   is famous for its architecture and its decoration that was frescoed throughout by Renaissance artists including Michelangelo, Sandro Botticelli, Pietro Perugino, Pinturicchio  and others. Under the patronage of Pope Julius II, Michelangelo painted 1100 square meters of the chapel ceiling between 1508 and 1512. The ceiling, and especially The Last Judgment), is widely believed to be Michelangelo's crowning achievement in painting.

The Basilica of the Holy Cross in Jerusalem is a Roman Catholic parish church and minor basilica in Rome. It is one of the Seven Pilgrim Churches of Rome. According to the tradition, the basilica was consecrated around 325 AD to house the Passion Relics brought to Rome from the Holy Land by St. Helena of Constantinople- mother of the Roman Emperor Constantine I. At that time, the basilica floor was covered with soil from Jerusalem, thus acquiring the title in Hierusalem - it is not dedicated to the Holy Cross which is in Jerusalem, but the church itself is "in Jerusalem" in the sense that a "piece" of Jerusalem was moved to Rome for its foundation. Several well-known relics of disputed authenticity are housed  in this church .They include: a part of the Titulus Crucis, i.e. the panel which was hung on Christ's Cross,  two thorns of the crown, an incomplete nail, and three small wooden pieces of the True Cross itself. A much larger piece of the cross was taken from Santa Croce in Gerusalemme to St. Peter's Basilica on the instructions of Pope Urban VIII in 1629.


Arch basilica of St. John Lateran or Papale di San Giovanni is the cathedral church of the Diocese of Rome and the official ecclesiastical seat of the Bishop of Rome, who is the Pope. It is the oldest and ranks first among the four r major basilicas of Rome. The interior of the Arch basilica is another great example of an architectural masterpiece besides being an important church from the point of view of pilgrimage. The major attractions include the holy steps. Holy Steps or the scala sancta  are the  wooden steps that encase white marble steps. These are, according to Roman Catholic tradition, the staircase leading once to the praetorian of Pilate at Jerusalem, hence sanctified by the footsteps of Jesus Christ during his Passion. The marble stairs are visible through openings in the wooden risers. Their translation from Jerusalem to the complex of palaces that became the ancient seat of popes in the 4th century is credited to Saint Helena, mother of the Emperor Constantine I. The Altar of the Holy Sacrament contains a cedar table that is said to be the one used by Christ at the Last Supper.


The interior of the basilica with its art work and grandeur makes the visit worthwhile. The ceiling catches attention instantly. The scenes from the old and new testament are interesting as also the relief panels and the sculptures.



Santi Vincenzo e Anastasio church is a special church located just in front of the Trevi fountain. The sculptures, paintings and ceiling decorations are impressive. The church was completed in 1650 and is in the Baroque style. The hearts that popes carry on their chests are kept in the Santi Vincenzo. The hearts of 25 popes are displayed here


Wednesday 27 March 2013

Sunday 24 March 2013

catacombs and the capuchin crypt


Catacombs

In ancient Roman times, no one was allowed to be buried within the walls of the city. While pagans (polytheism) Romans were into cremation, Christians preferred to be buried so they could be resurrected when the time came. But land was expensive, and most Christians were poor. A few wealthy, landowning Christians allowed their land to be used as burial places. The 40 or so known catacombs are scattered outside the ancient walls of Rome. From the first through the fifth centuries, Christians dug an estimated 375 miles of tomb-lined tunnels, with networks of galleries as many as five layers deep. The volcanic tuff that Rome sits atop — soft and easy to cut, but hardens when exposed to air — was perfect for the job. The Christians burrowed many layers deep for two reasons: to get more mileage out of the donated land, and to be near martyrs and saints already buried there. Bodies were wrapped in linen (like Christ's). Since they figured the Second Coming was imminent, there was no interest in embalming the body. Many scholars also believe that these catacombs came into existence to help persecuted Christians to bury their dead secretly.

The underground tunnels, while empty of bones, are rich in early Christian symbolism . Most of these catacombs are located on Rome's Via Appia Antica, Old Appian Way, outside the walls of Rome. There are many catacombs that can be visited- Catacombs of St. Callixtus, Catacombs of St. Domitilla, and Catacombs of St. Sebastian, are the most famous ones. Besides St. Priscilla's Catacombs, which is amongst the oldest can also be visited but it is not located on Via appia but on via Salaria. Via in roman means road or path.  All catacombs are not open all days. But one can find one of these open every day. So one needs to check which is open on a particular day before visiting. When I decided to visit the catacombs, Catacomb of St Sebastian was open and obviously I could visit that only. I took a bus from circa Massimo-the stop next to FAO but got down well before the stop near St Sebastian on the apian way under some confusion. I therefore had to walk a couple of kilometres, which seemed endless to me. The apian way is the longest road and an isolated area outside Rome. The apian way like a busy highway has all the speeding carsdirect.


Catacombs of St. Sebastian:  Catacomb of St Sebastian has about 11 km of tunnels but the tour is restricted to a very small area. Highlights of the catacombs include early Christian mosaics and graffiti. This cemetery, named after the martyr St. Sebastian, who is buried here, was originally called “ad catacumbas”. According to the widely acknowledged explanation, the name signifies “near the hollows”, because of the mines of tuff located in this area. The name was later used generally to indicate all subterranean Christian cemeteries. Another ancient name of the cemetery was “Apostolic Memorial”. The name derives from the liturgical celebrations, dedicated to the Apostles Peter and Paul, which took place here for a limited period in the first centuries.

From the first century, the site had been intensely exploited and constructed upon. The caves and the tunnels of the mines were used for Christian rectangular wall tombs as well smaller tombs (colombari) used to house urns.

Around the middle of the second century, a cave-in occurred, and in the square which was constructed above ground, three mausoleums were built, respectively belonging to Clodius Hermes, the Innocentores and “sub Ascia”. Later this area was again covered over and a portico enclosed by a wall was built. Along the wall, hundreds of graffiti writings, dedicated to Peter and Paul, have been deciphered. Around the year 258, the religious celebrations commemorating the two Apostles were transferred to the site, and the emperor Constantine had a basilica constructed in the honor of the Apostles. Meanwhile, the catacomb had been developing underground from the third century.


The church above the catacomb of St Sebastian is sacred in many ways. It has the “footprints” of Jesus .At the exact place where St Peter met Jesus after resurrection, it is believed Jesus miraculously left his footprints .The place now has a church but the original footprints are now kept in the St Sebastian Basilica. It will be interesting for me to briefly narrate the story here, which may interest my Christian friends.

The “Chiesa del Domine Quo Vadis” is located on the spot where tradition says Saint Peter had a vision of the risen Christ while fleeing persecution in Rome. According to the apocryphal Acts of Peter, Peter was surprised to see Jesus and asked him:

Domine, quo vadis? ("Lord, where are you going?")

And Jesus answered:

Eo Romam iterum crucifigi ("I go to Rome to be crucified anew.")

This convinced Peter to turn around and face crucifixion himself in Rome.

Evidence for the presence of the Apostle Peter in this area, where he is said to have lived, includes an epigraph in the catacombs of Saint Sebastian that reads "Domus Petri" (house of Peter) and an epigram by Pope Damasus I (366-384): "You that are looking for the names of Peter and Paul, You must know that the saints have lived here".

Capuchin crypt 

 
 Another interesting place to visit in Rome is the Capuchin crypt. The Capuchin Crypt is a small space comprising several tiny chapels located beneath the church of Santa Maria della Concezione dei Cappuccini on the Via Veneto near Piazza Barberini. It contains the skeletal remains of 4,000 bodies believed to be Capuchin friars buried by their order. Large numbers of the bones are nailed to the walls in intricate patterns, many are piled high among countless others, while others hang from the ceiling as light fixtures. There are six total rooms in the crypt, five featuring a unique display of human bones believed to have been taken from the bodies of friars who had died between 1528 and 1870.. These rooms are -Crypt of the Resurrection, featuring a picture of Jesus raising Lazarus from the dead, framed by various parts of the human skeleton. The key to interpreting the crypt's displays of funereal art lies in the Christian belief in the Resurrection of the body and everlasting life .The other crypts include Crypt of the Skulls, Crypt of the Pelves, Crypt of the Leg Bones and Thigh Bones and Crypt of the Three Skeletons .

While the catacombs do present a gory picture despite the fact there are no skeletons or bones left, the Capuchin crypt look all the more interesting with skulls, bones and skeletons .The Capuchin crypt was more interesting because of a pretty friend who accompanied me to the crypt.In fact it was her idea that made this visit possible. Although the crypt was adjacemt to my hotel, I never had any idea about this interesting place but thanks to “nats” that I discovered this place. Both the places do not allow pictures to be taken although Iwantoneofthose pictures inside. But thanks to Google , I have uploaded few pictures here to give idea abouth these interesting places.

Friday 15 March 2013

My Rome Diary-3


Fontana De Trevi
 

Fontana de Trevi or Trevi Fountain is one of the most visited places in Rome. People from every nook and corner of Rome visit this place frequently and this area is flooded with foreign tourists. The Fontana di Trevi is the most beautiful fountain in all of Rome and located in the small Trevi square located in the Quirinale district. It is at the walking distance from Barbereni metro station.

“Tre vie” means at the junction of three roads. the setting for an iconic scene in Federico Fellini’s  film La Dolce Vita. The fountain is used for some scenes in the 1953 film Roman Holiday. The fountain is also featured in the film "Gidget Goes to Rome”. It is one of the ancient aqueducts that supplied water to ancient Rome. In 19 BC, supposedly with the help of a virgin, Roman technicians located this source of pure water some 13 km from the city. In the 4th Century there were 1352 fountains in rome.

 The designs of the trevi fountain look fantastic and are based on three architectural elements: a façade made of travertine; statues of carrara marble; a see reef also made of travertine. The central figure of the fountain, in front of a large niche, is Neptune, god of the sea. He is riding a chariot in the shape of a shell, pulled by two sea horses. Each sea horse is guided by a Triton. One of the horses is calm and obedient, the other one restive. They symbolize the fluctuating moods of the sea.On the left hand side of Neptune is a statue representing Abundance, the statue The crowded squareon th e right represents Salubrity. Above the sculptures are bas-reliefs, one of them shows Agrippa, the general who built the aqueduct that carries water to the fountain


The water at the bottom of the fountain represents the sea. Legend has it you will return to Rome if you throw a coin into the water. You should toss it over your shoulder with your back to the fountain.

 

Spanish steps

The Spanish steps are one of the famous spots in Rome that attracts a lot of tourists .I found it interesting more because of the youthful crowd and lots of hustle and bustle in the area. It’s one of the most happening places in Rome. One feels forever 21 here. Since it was close to my hotel, I was almost a regular visitor to trevi Fontana and the steps.  The Spanish Steps are a set of steps climbing a steep slope between the Piazza di Spagna at the base and Piazza Trinità dei Monti, these steps are said to be the widest staircase in Europe. Although I am not convinced of this claim .may be true of Europe but India itself has far more and many widest stairs.

At the foot of the stairs there is the famous Barcaccia Fountain, the work of Pietro Bernini and his son, Gian Lorenzo. The latter went on to become the creator of some of the most important masterpieces of Baroque art in the city, including the renowned baldachino of St. Peter's Basilica. With its characteristic form of a sinking ship, the fountain recalls the historic flood of the River Tiber in 1598 and refers to a folk legend whereby a fishing boat carried away by the flood of the river was found at this exact spot. In reality, the sinking boat was ably invented by Bernini to overcome a technical problem due to low water pressure.. the boat looks fascinating and the view of the steps and the church from the spagna looks great.
 

The cream-coloured building to the right is the apartment where John Keats lived, now it has been converted into the Keats-Shelley Memorial House. John Keats lived and died here in 1821.


the Trinità dei Monti is a late Renaissance titular church . It is best known for its commanding position above the Spanish Steps which lead down to the Piazza di Spagna. The church and its surrounding area are the property of the French State.

The streets around the Spanish Steps are largely occupied by a firmament of designer boutiques, from Giorgio Armani to Ermenegildo Zegna. The Via Giubbinari, which runs from Via Arenula to the Campo de’Fiori, beautyexpert , ebay is lined with shops catering mostly to the young or young at heart. Trastevere is dotted with boutiques carrying an electic mix of cutting-edge design, ethnic looks and fine made-to-measure garments.

Pantheon


Pantheon is an ancient Greek composite word meaning All Gods. The Pantheon was commissioned by Marcus Agrippa as a temple to all the gods of Ancient Rome, and rebuilt by Emperor Hadrian in about 126 AD. It is one of the best-preserved of all Roman buildings. since the 7th century, the Pantheon has been used as a Roman Catholic church dedicated to "St. Mary and the Martyrs" but informally known as "Santa Maria della Rotonda." The square in front of the Pantheon is called Piazza della Rotonda.

Michelangelo  when saw pantheon for the first time in early 1500 proclaimed it of “angelic and not human design.”  It is said that Michel angelo with an artist’s critical eye, was not easily impressed by anything but pantheon did attract his attention the very first time he saw it. To me pantheon is a great example of typical roman architecture and it gives a feeling of the ancient rome.  It looks a magnificent architectural masterpiece from outside  and an equally marvelous architectural delight from inside.the dome is particularly appealing. Originally a temple for all pagan gods, the temple was converted into a church in 609. The Pantheon now contains the tombs of the famous artist Raphael and of several Italian kings.


The Pantheon borders the Piazza della Rotonda, a rectangular square with at its center an 18th century fountain crowned with an obelisk.

Friday 1 March 2013

My Rome diary-I


Rome-as my friends say, has become my second home. I have visited this city, which has maintained its antiquity even now for three times already. I have been visiting this city to attend official engagements at Food and Agriculture Organisation (FAO).
A view of Roman Forum and surroundings from FAO
 
The location of FAO is very interesting as it is surrounded bt famous landmarks .To its one end are tha famous Baths of Carcalla, while to the other end is the Circus Massimo. The iconic Colloseum and Roman Forum are just facing FAO Headquarter building. Visiting these places was my almost daily routine during the one and a half hour lunch break that FAO generously provided.


FAO


 

The Baths of Caracalla

The Baths of Caracalla in Rome, Italy were the second largest Roman public baths, or thermae, built in Rome between AD 212 and 216, during the reign of the Emperor Caracalla. The red-brick ruins of the Baths of Caracalla are situated southeast of ancient Rome's center. The baths were enormous buildings, with huge frescoed vaults covering the massive rooms. This huge 11 hectare (27 acre) large complex housed bathing facilities could accommodate more than 1600 people.


At a time when Rome's crowded tenements had few sanitary facilities, the more than 50 public baths in Imperial Rome played an important part in Roman society. Not only did it improve the cleanliness and health of its citizens, but the thermae (bath) were also places where Romans came to socialize gossip and relax. The ritual of bathing was a long process, starting with a hot bath, lukewarm, followed by the cold and finally a swim in an open air swimming pool.

The Baths of Caracalla was more than a mere bathing house; it was actually a multifunctional leisure center and also housed gymnasiums, libraries, gardens, art galleries, restaurants and even brothels. The Baths of Caracalla was known for its rich interior which featured marble seats, mosaic covered walls and floors as well as fountains and statues. A complex water distribution system ensured a constant flow of water from the Aqua Marcia aqueduct. The baths were fully functional until 537 AD when Goths destroyed the aqueduct, cutting off the water supply.
 
Neglect, looting and an earthquake turned this great architectural complex into ruins. Today, the roofs have collapsed, the walls have fallen down, the statues have been removed, and the decoration is gone, but yet, the ruins belong to the most impressive remains of Antiquity

Circo Massimo

The Circus Maximus or circo  Massimo is an ancient roman chariot racing and mass entertainment venue located in Rome. It was the first and largest stadium in ancient Rome and its later Empire. It measured 621 m in length and 118 m  in width, and could accommodate about 150,000 spectators. The site is now a public park with ruins of roman forum in the backdrop. Very little now remains of the Circus, except for the grass-covered racing track and the outline of the central barrier.

 
Some of the starting gates remain, but most of the seating has disappeared. After the 6th century, the site fell into disuse and gradual decay. The place is more of an historic importance then a famous tourist spot. But since it is a stone throw away distance from Colosseum, one can have a look of the place and take a few pictures. It was however exciting to me for a different reason. The shooting of famous “Ben Hur”-one of my favorite movies was shot at this very venue.

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