Mesmerising Kashmir 3: Sonmarg and Kokernag

Sonmarg

After Gulmarg we proceeded to Sonamarg , which is situated at a distance of 84 kms from Srinagar, on the Srinagar-Ladakh Road. Sonmarg is called the meadow of gold and is located in the Sindh valley with the Sindh (Indus) river  meandering  through the valley .Sonamarg is the base of  major trek that pass along several mountain lakes –Vishansar, Kishansar, Gadsar, Satsar and Gangabal. Sonamarg is also the take off station for the drive to Ladakh across the Zojila, a major pass in the Great Himalayan Range, through which the Srinagar-Leh Road passes.Sonmarg is therefore, also called the “gateway to Laddakh”. Just like Pahalgam, Sonmarg is also a base for undertaking the yatra to the holy Amarnath cave. The route to Amarnath cave is shorter from Sonmarg, however, the pilgrims prefer the longer route from Pahalgam because of its religious significance.

Thajawas glacier is a major attraction in Sonmarg and is a must see for any visitor visiting this place from any nook and corner of the country or abroad. Unlike any other glacier, it is easily accessible by ponies or even by vehicles. It is not very far from the highway. The glacier is a photographer’s delight. We found a lot of snow at Thajwas and it was very chilly because of the rains. The beauty of nature here is breathless with a mixture of dazzling white snow of the glacier and the adjoining greenery.

We also visited the trout fishing point in Sonmarg. We could not do fishing because of the rains and the chill but we did enjoy the surroundings with a cup of tea served to us by the fishery department’s small office at the fishing point.

 

Kokernag

While returning to Srinagar, we took a halt at Kokernag, primarily to look at the famous trout fish hatchery . However, we discovered that Kokernag is also a famous picnic spot and tourist attraction. Basically, the real name of Kokernag is Bindoo Zalangam. It is a collection of many small springs and their collective appearance resembles to the claws of a Koker (cock). Kokernag is the largest fresh water spring of Kashmir and its water has many curative and digestive properties.
The word Kokernag has been derived from the two words namely, Koker and Nag. The word Koker has been taken from a Kashmiri word "Morgee" meaning chicken, while the word nag has been taken from Sanskrit word "Nag" meaning snake.

Kokernag is  also famous for its trout streams and the largest fresh water spring in Kashmir, Trout hatchery department which has constructed pools in series where in trout is reared. Different pools have got trout with different weights and ages. Department sells it to the tourists who find it a delicious dish and enjoy it. Kokernag is eight miles form Achabal and famous for the curative properties of its beautiful springs.
Kokernag has some historical importance also. Kokernag has been mentioned in Ain Akbari, where in it has been mentioned that the water of Kokernag satisfies both hunger and thirst and its is also a remedy for indigestion.

Mesmerising kashmir-2:Gulmarg , avantipur

Gulmarg

Gulmarg or the “meadow of flowers” is a famous skiing resort of Kashmir and extremely popular tourist destination of Kashmir and people from every nook and corner of India as well as abroad visit this place both during summer and winters. Gulmarg has been a resort for the kings like Yousuf Shah Chak and Jahangir who used to visit this place frequently. The old name of Gulmarg was "Gaurimarg", after the name of Lord Shiva's wife.

Besides famous for its scenic beauty, Gulmarg is also now famous for its Gondola (cable car) , which  is second highest in the world. It is the only cable car system in Asia that travels up an elevation of 13,500 ft above sea level. It is located on the backdrop of the beautiful Himalayan Peaks in the Gondola Village of Gulmarg. The Gondola covers the distance from Gulmarg to Kongdoor and from Kongdoor to Apharwat. This cable lift service comprises 2 stretches that travel a total distance of 5 km.

Gulmarg is a very popular trekking base in the Himalayan regions. Many trekking trails offering medium to hard adventurous trekking originates from the hilly terrains of Gulmarg. There are many resorts offering all supports for trekking expeditions and also there are many skilled guides. Gulmarg-Khilanmarg, Gulmarg-Apharwat and Gulmarg-Alapther trekking trails are very popular among the trekking enthusiasts. The trekking through the breathtaking undulated snow covered sloppy Himalayan ranges is really an adventurous experience to extol.

Majestic views of Nanga Parbat, enchanting snow covered valleys and dense forests make the trekking in Gulmarg a wonderful experience for any traveller. Ideal time for trekking is from April to November. Gulmarg is also famous for its Golf Course, which is the highest golf course in the world.

 

Avantipur Ruins

 

While going to kokernag we visited enroute, the temples in Avantipur. These ruins are situated about 18 kilometres on the main road and therefore are very easy to find and can be seen even with a brief stopover. The two temples dating 9th century are only 1 km apart. One is a Shiva Temple, which is renovated and is in daily use. The larger, the Avantiswami Temple is now a ruin. King Awantivarman, who ruled Kashmir from 853 to 888 AD built both temples and dedicated the larger, the Avantiswami Temple to the Hindu God Vishnu. Awantivarman was the first king of the Utpala dynasty.

We could only see the Vishnu temple , which is  located within a kilometre northwest of the Shiva temple by the side of the Srinagar-Jammu highway. The main shrine is in the centre of a spacious oblong courtyard and four subsidiary shrines at the corners. The temple is of rectangular shape with a central building. It is surrounded by an array of 69 cells around the periphery of a paved courtyard and has an imposing gateway in the middle part of the western side. The stairs leading to the sanctum, are engraved with figures of Kamdev, King Avanthivarman, his queen and entourage. The elegant forms, proportionate layout, exuberant carvings and graceful sculptures of the temples exhibit the masterly composition of architecture and art in Kashmir during that period. The temples are made of large, dressed rectangular blocks, slabs and columns of limestone of the Triassic age.

The two temples, although in ruins, still proclaim the great architectural skill of ancient Kashmir. The factors responsible for the ruins are varied, which include destruction of the roof by the Sultans and the effect of earthquakes. We were told that the  main cause of the deteriorated condition of the sculptures was  the inherent defect in the rock made of  the limestone which is easily subjected to weathering. Thus, the magnificent temples of Avantipur including their carved images became the target of the hostile elements of nature and a victim of time.